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The Meatballs. It’s not the new Scorsese movie, but the article is needed here because these meatballs are the stars of all the meatballs.
These meatballs are cooked in white wine and broth. Mamma called them Polpette in Umido. The word “umido”- that these days could sound exotic like umami, umeboshi, it’s Italian (of course), and it means stewed. The Meatballs are braised as they are first browned in a pan and then covered with white wine and broth and a couple of essentials other ingredients.
I can talk about food for hours, I can read about food for hours. I love reading and studying cookbooks, especially old ones. Now I am reading Pellegrino Artusi “Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well (La Scienza in Cucina e l’arte di mangiar bene). A book that mamma had that is super old but in some way extremely modern, contemporary, illuminate.
It’s dated 1891. So, no Kitchen-Aid, no appliances, no fancy utensils. It’s very inspiring for me because, in my project of reviving mamma’s recipes, the crucial thing is that she didn’t have any kitchen helper. Not even a chef’s knife. What she had was a super tiny kitchen. The only appliance was a handle mixer that we gifted her when I was a teenager because she used to beat egg whites with-just-a-whisk.
With – just – a – whisk.
I mean, I monthly pay Jillian Michaels app to have strong arms. Now, try to whip egg whites with a whisk, and tell me how does it feel. Or better, how numb are your arms after beaten five egg whites for Tiramisù. She made everything using just her hands. And don’t think she had a lot of time. She worked full time, two kids, zia Lavina, my father and Babà the dog (plus my pets during the years: a fish that never died, two birds (one limping), turtles, and a goose at some point). We couldn’t help her doing anything. She always told me, “You will have to work, clean and cook a lot in your life, now just enjoy your life” (and the oracle has spoken).
Of course, mamma was a superhero, but you are too! It’s your turn to show the world the chef inside you and cooking whatever you want. Turn up the music, pour a glass of red wine, enjoy your cooking time, even if it just you. Remember it’s never just you, but it’s always just magnifically you.
Ingredients
It makes 60 meatballs of 20 gr each (I like them small, approx 2′)
for the meatballs:
- 1 pound (450 gr) (16 oz) ground pork (I like the 80%lean 20% fat of TraderJoes)
- 1 pound (450 gr) (16 oz) ground beef (85%lean 15% fat)
- 100 gr/3 big slices of stale bread crumbled (I like Pugliese bread, and I don’t remove the crust)
- 3 tbsp of milk (any milk will work good, even almond, I tried)
- 1/2 cup (50 gr) (3.5 oz) of Pecorino Romano grated
- 1/2 cup (50 gr) (3.5 oz) of Parmigiano Reggiano grated
- 1 egg
for the sughetto:
- 1 large onion diced or thinly sliced
- vegetable or beef broth (at least 4 or 5 cups)
- 2 full glasses of dry white wine
- a bunch of parsley
- 4 bay leaves
- 2 teaspoons of tomato paste
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Extravirgin olive oil to brown the meatballs. (10 tbsp total)
How to:
In a small bowl place the bread with milk, turning a couple of times. In a big bowl, combine the meats, grated cheese, the well-squeezed bread, and one egg. Shape into meatballs. I have a dutch oven and usually do the browning and the braising in the same pan. If you don’t have the dutch oven, you can brown the meatballs in a skillet and then move them to a saucepot.
If using two different pans: in a skillet reheat two tbsp of extra-virgin olive oil, brown the meatballs in batches and set aside.
Coat another saucepot with the rest of the oil and cook the onions until gold. Pour in the glass of white wine, and after 5 minutes add the hot broth When bubbling add parsley, bay leaves, and tomato paste. Place the meatballs in the pot gently, and if you need more water to cover, remember to add it hot.
Cook for at least 1 hour (it depends on the meat, sometimes it took me two hours to get soft meatballs). Just be sure there is enough liquid. I like it brothy and saucy, so I can make scarpetta. If you are a scarpetta lover, don’t miss Gnocchi Alla Sorrentina and Spezzatino Aggrassato.
Remember the rule; the day after these meatballs are better, so if you can, make them ahead.
ps. Polpette al Sugo will arrive soon!
With love, Dani
